5 Nano Reef Fish
5 Nano Reef Fish By: Chris Fong As the hobby continues to evolve with advancements in technology ever growing nano reefs are becoming more and more popular. These setups are attractive towards most people due to their small size requirements, significantly smaller setup cost compared to larger systems, and the wide variety of options aquarist can choose from in terms of equipment and livestock. However, even as our understanding of aquariums has improved along with advancements in technology small tanks in general are still considered more difficult due to their smaller volume of water. As a result, the aquarist should pay extra attention towards these smaller setups to help reduce fluctuations in parameters which could be potentially devastating. To clarify a Nano reef is considered around 5-30 US gallons by most people and the fish described in this blog will comfortably live in this 30-gallon setup long-term considering their husbandry requirements are met. These requirements include a properly cycled aquarium with adequate filtration, heating, water quality combined with proper compatibility and diet. In this blog I will discuss 5 great fish species suited for a Nano reef. Side Note: The best fish suited for small nano reefs or pico reefs long term are gobies as most of them stay incredibly small. But to add variety to this list I decided to add other fish that can live comfortably in a larger nano tank. Panamic Barnacle Blenny (Acanthemblemria hancocki) This fish can be located from Panama to El Salvador and even as far down as Ecuador. It is an excellent choice for Nano tanks as it has a maximum size of 2 inches when fully grown. The barnacle blenny has a unique personality preferring to sit inside of a small hole and occasionally poke it’s round head out to look for food and predators. On top of this, the barnacle blenny also has large googly eyes making it an adorable addition to a small tank. Also, when food is added to the aquarium the barnacle blenny will dart out of its crevice at an incredibly fast speed and then quickly retreat into the same crevice making it a very entertaining fish to observe while feeding. The barnacle blenny should be kept with peaceful fish although it can sometimes exhibit aggression towards similar looking fish or fish that invade its territory. Additionally, many nooks and crannies should be made available for this fish to hide in naturally. Finally, a diet of small meaty foods such as frozen blood worms, brine shrimp, plankton, and Mysis shrimp should make up most of its diet combined with quality flakes/ pellets that have been soaked in vitamins. Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) While the Royal gramma is the largest fish on this list growing to 3 inches when fully grown making it ideal for tanks around 30 gallons for long term housing I decide to include it in this list because of it’s outstanding coloration and hardiness. Naturally these fish are found in deep water reefs in the Caribbean hiding in and around rock crevices. Due to this natural behavior the royal gramma will hide a lot especially when first introduced into the aquarium. Over time though this fish will become bolder and venture out into the open. Royal Grammas are very hardy fish making...
read moreFreshwater Nano Fish
Freshwater Nano Fish Nano aquariums have been popular for quite some time. They can light up a desk or kitchen counter top and can easily be the center of attention in any room. These small aquariums, generally 10 gallons or less, can be a great alternative for those that feel a large aquarium is too much work or too daunting. Nano tanks do come with some challenges. The main challenge is that with less water volume there will be a more rapid shift in water quality. It is important to be consistent with regular weekly water changes for the long term success of the aquarium. The best looking nano tanks in my opinion are ones that are fully planted. With the use of driftwood, various stones, and lush green plants you can turn a glass box of water into an underwater oasis. I’ve seen some professionally designed nano tanks that will make you think you’re looking at a miniaturized mountain range. The limit is your imagination. Now onto the main attraction, the fish! Here at Absolutely Fish we carry a wide selection of nano fish to choose from. One of our most popular species is the celestial pearl danio. This fish is relatively new to the hobby, only being discovered in 2006 out of Myanmar. This micro-danio will reach an adult size of about 3/4 of an inch. They possess bright red fins and a brown body covered in gold spots. They are quite active and can be kept with many other tetras, rasboras, and peaceful barbs. Another extremely popular fish we regularly stock is the Amanda tetra, also known as the ember tetra. These miniature tetras come from the Amazon and are great schooling fish. They are a solid orangey-red color and are surprisingly hardy for their size. One of my favorite fish selections for nano tanks are dwarf corys. The two species we most commonly see are Corydoras habrosus and Corydoras pygmaes. These cory catfish are a schooling fish so a group of five or more is recommended. They prefer a sandy or smooth substrate and a diet consisting of small sinking pellets and bloodworms. Another colorful option for a nano aquarium would be Endlers Livebearers. Endlers are a form of guppy native to Venezuela. Males reach a maximum size of 1 inch and females closer to 2 inch. The males possess all the color and come in many different color varieties. Some of the colors we regularly bring in are the flaming pink, electric blue, and yellow cobras. Be careful mixing males and females because they are prolific breeders. Other than fish we do bring in some interesting invertebrates to add another dynamic to your nano aquarium. Thai micro crabs are quickly becoming a crowd favorite. Their care is similar to that of fancy shrimp. They require very clean water and lots of plants to hide. They should be kept with only other small peaceful fish. These crabs are omnivorous and will spend most of their day foraging for microorganisms. Recently we have seen the popularity in nerite snails surge. We now regularly carry a few varieties of these excellent algae eating snails. We regularly stock the zebra nerites and tiger nerites. On occasion we will bring in fancy...
read moreTop 5 Frags to Buy at Absolutely Fish
Top 5 Frags to Buy at Absolutely Fish By: Eric Russo 5. Zoanthids/Palythoas Zoanthids and Paythoa buttons offer any hobbyist the opportunity to add a variety of color into their tank. They are relatively easy to maintain and will grow at a decent rate. Zoanthids in particular are very prone to pests such as nudibranchs so dipping new purchases in a coral cleaning bath is highly recommended. It is important to use caution when handling and particularly when fragging zoanthids and palythoa buttons due to the dangerous palytoxins they possess. 4. Montipora capricornis This montipora species is most notable for the unique way it grows in a stacked plating formation. As far as SPS corals are concerned, this is a great option for beginners, it is fairly easy to keep and will grow quickly. To enjoy the potentially explosive growth it can be known for calcium and alkalinity levels should be monitored and kept in optimal ranges. As with zoanthids and palythoas these corals are prone to pests and should be dipped before adding to the tank. 3. Acans (Micromussa lordhowensis) Knows colloquially as “Acans”, these LPS brain corals have been reclassified within the last few years from the genus Acanthastrea to the genus Micromussa. Taxonomy aside, these corals make awesome frags that are easy to keep. Individual polyps can be found with multitudes of color, with many earning a nickname like “rainbow”. These corals benefit from semi-regular feeding and can consume food as large as a pellet or a mysis shrimp. 2. Frogspawn The genus Euphyllia has several corals that could be in a top 5 list, but there’s something about frogspawn that gives it the edge. It features the same long polyp extension seen with torch corals but with a more interesting polyp shape like a hammer. It’s the best of all Euphyllia has to offer, and frags here at the shop are always among the first to sell. While slower growing than the other corals on this list it is still easy to keep alive and thriving. Keep in mind when placing it in your aquarium that is has a longer reach than most corals, it is semi-aggressive, and it can sting neighboring species. 1. Green Star Polyp We’ve made it to the top slot on the list and some may find this pick controversial. Green Star Polyp is an excellent choice for beginners to experts alike; it has vibrant coloration, pleasing motion in the aquarium, and it grows quickly….very quickly. This coral is probably only rivaled by Xenia in terms of potential growth rate and can be overwhelming for those who are unprepared. Careful consideration should be taken when determining placement because under ideal growing conditions, it can take up more “real estate” in the aquarium then you intended. Many hobbyists have had experiences that left those feeling like Green Star Polyp were akin to other reef pests like aiptasia, but when properly placed and tended to it makes a great addition to any reef. There are so many other corals that make great frags, but these are some of my personal favorites. Feel free to share your favorite frags or just talk coral in general with us in the shop! Stop by soon to see these and many more awesome options for your...
read morePlecos To Buy In New Jersey – Pelcos
Plecos To Buy In New Jersey When hobbyists hear the word pleco, images of catfish suckered onto glass and various aquatic surfaces come to mind. Unbeknownst to many newcomers in the hobby, the common pleco is not the only loricariid in the Amazon, or our store for that matter. Loricariids are an extremely important component to the ecosystems in the Amazon, making up the largest family of catfish with new species being described every year. These fish have adapted to their respective environments over many years, providing us with a plethora of catfish in different shapes and colors. Today we’ll be going over the top 5 plecos I recommend to hobbyists looking to get their toes wet keeping these armored catfish. Before I begin, I’d first like to mention I won’t be selecting specific species but rather small groupings of genera within the Loricariid family. With so many to choose from it’s a bit of a disservice to recommend specific fish. Each genera has its specific behavior and care requirements, and hobbyists can select any of the fish in each grouping that better suits their aquarium set-up and its inhabitants. Without further ado, lets gets started! Panaque/Panaqolus The fish in this group consist of mainly royal plecos, clown plecos, and one of my favorites, the L204 flash pleco. Royal plecos can get very large, requiring excessive filtration to keep up with their heavy bioload. The smaller fish in this genus also tend to be very shy when compared to others such as ancistrus and leporacanthicus. These fish have an affinity for mowing down wood in the aquarium in search of aufwuchs (the collection of small animals and plants that adhere to open surfaces in aquatic environments). These fish although beautiful will demolish your favorite piece of driftwood over time and leave the trails all over your substrate for you to vacuum later. Therefore, I won’t rank them higher on this list. Leporacanthicus/Scobinancistrus Loricariids in this genus avoid plants and have a more carnivorous diet. A few examples would be the sultan pleco, vampire pleco, sunshine pleco, and triactis pleco. These loricariids can get a medium to large size, with some topping over a foot. Because of this, most leporacanthicus are not suitable for smaller tanks. As a result of their preferred diet, it is also a bit more of a challenge to maintain good water conditions. Prawns, Mollusks, and other inverts should be fed regularly, with the addition of algae wafers and driftwood. Although they are very colorful, the species in this genus tend to be more aggressive than most. Rineloricaria These are known as the whiptail catfish. We have a few in our store, with my personal favorite being the royal farlowella. These fish are very distinct because of their narrow, twig-like bodies. This genus is well suited to planted tanks, as they won’t bother most plants. Diet consists mainly of algae and other greens, dropping in some spinach or zucchini would be a nice addition to a staple of algae wafers. As with all loricariids, a piece of driftwood in the tank for them to graze on between feedings is encouraged. These are very peaceful, so they would do well with other bottom dwellers and community fish in home aquaria. Hypancistrus If you want a bit of...
read moreThe Essential Top 10 Reef Cleaners
The Essential Top 10 Reef Cleaners by Glenn Laborda The modern reef tank has evolved. In the past, a perspective reef keeper would have to go to a local fish store or stores to learn and purchase supplies for their reef. Today, there is literally huge shows and expos dedicated to this part of the hobby. At these events you can find some of the rarest items possible for your reef. You can purchase rare mushrooms in upwards of 10,000 dollars and a quarter inch of an S.P.S. frag in the thousands! The people who sell the items are generally not from a L.F.S.; they are coral traders. Great at buying and selling odd and unique corals, but not well versed in the ecosystem of an established reef. Most of us do not want a plastic tub with egg crate racks and small frags. We want a small, complete piece of the reef in our home. We want to make the most natural looking picture of this as we can. That takes a balance of macro- and micro-organisms to keep everything in check. I have been building these ecosystems for over 30 years. I have tried many approaches from the early Jaubert systems to today’s full automated and ap-driven reefs. Over that expanse of time I have learned there are some amazing reef animals that excel at cleaning and husbandry of your reef. Although there are probably over 100 reef animals that can make their way into the hobby, I will go over my top ten essential cleaners. These are all “generally” reef safe. Even safe cleaners can be opportunistic and eat a tank-make, but for the most part these are all good together. Red Stripe Trochus: (Trochus radiatus) is a great algae eater. Will clean from the glass to the rocks. Very hardy, can flip itself over pretty easily. Keep about 1 per 2 gallons of tank volume. Scarlet Hermit: (Paguriste cadenati) is a small Caribbean species which is great at eating filament type algae. They are omnivorous so supplement with pellets now and again. Same 1 per 2-3 gallons of tank volume. Tuxedo Urchin: (Mespilia globulus) is one of my favorite reef cleaners. Will mow down algae not to bulldozing as they stay small. Can eat your coralline though. 1 per 30 gallons is sufficient. Nassarius Snail: (Nassarius distortus) is the Tongan variety of sand snail. Omnivore/Detritivore, great at keeping sand stirred and oxygenated. Also great at finding uneaten food. 1 for every 2-3 gallons of tank volume. Sand Star: (Astropectan polycanthus) is the white sand star. Another great sand mover, also omnivore/detritivore. Make sure all 5 arms are solid upon purchase. 1 for every 10-20 gallons of tank volume. Conches: (Strombus sp.) are amazing at eating algae, stirring sand, and omnivorous cleanup. Some species get large, stick with fighting or tiger varieties. 1 per 10 gallons tank volume. Cleaner Shrimp: (Lysmatta amboinensis) is fantastic at finding uneaten food, keeping parasites off fish and general tank cleaning. Become very “friendly” and will jump on your hand during routine maintenance. 1 per 10-15 gallons of tank volume. Emerald Crab: (Mithraculus sculptus) is probably one of the best filament algae eaters in the invert world. This one though can be the most opportunistic “attacker” when large. Always buy...
read moreSpecies Spotlight – Marine Betta
Species Spotlight – Marine Betta written by Greg Macher photo by Greg Macher The Marine Betta or Calloplesiops altivelas is an amazing reef fish from the family Plesiopidae. This family is known as the roundheads or spiny basslets. There was a thought for a while that there was a second species called C. argus which has smaller spots and some blue lines but further research found out it was the same species at different stages of life. As the marine betta grows its spots move apart. These beautiful fish are found in the Indo-Pacific commonly near reefs and drop offs. They are nocturnal by nature and like to hide in caves during the day coming out to feed at night. C. altivelas is a predator in the wild feeding on small fish and small crustaceans. The pattern of the marine betta is a dark body with white spots including a false eye spot near the caudal peduncle region. This false spot helps the marine betta to mimic the whitemouth moray eel. This tactic is called mimicry as a way to avoid predators. When the marine betta is hiding behind a rock it will stick its head downward and the tail spot appears as the moray. The marine betta has been bred successfully in captivity although hard to come by. C. altivelas can grow up to 20cm (8 inches) and can make an amazing addition to your home aquarium. In the home aquarium it is important to aquascape with many caves and hiding spots for your marine betta to hide during the day so they can feel comfortable. A minimum tank size for the marine betta should be at least 55g. It is possible to put two marine bettas together but usually will only work if one is male and the other female. Telling the sexes apart, however, is very difficult. The best option is to get one larger and one smaller. One awesome aspect of these fish is that they are very hardy fish which have a strong resistance to ich and other parasites. The marine betta will not eat coral themselves but caution should be taken placing one of these beautiful fish in a reef aquarium as they can eat small fish and invertebrates. Although C. altivelas is a predator, it will not mix well with other aggressive predators such as groupers and lionfish or even fast boisterous eaters. The marine betta is a slow stalker and needs time to get food. When first introduced to the new aquarium C. altivelas may be shy and hide longer than most people want but with time and care they can be a real show piece for your aquarium! Many customers having trouble feeding at first will use ghost shrimp or live black worms; however, they should be weaned off live foods toward meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, squid, clam and even pellets! I can tell you personally over time the marine betta will become your favorite fish and much more outgoing. Mine personally comes to great me every morning and night looking for some pellets. If you have any questions about C. altivelas please come in to Absolutely Fish and talk to me,...
read moreOh No! Algae?!
Oh No! Algae?! written by Paul Pinto Getting an outbreak of algae is definitely one of, if not the most annoying problem you can encounter when running a planted aquarium. Algae comes in many different shapes and forms from free floating green algae that will make your tank look like Ecto-Cooler, to hair algae that will form a carpet over your decor and plants. I’ll go over some of my favorite aquarium way to help control some of the most common nuisance algae. First, a disclaimer: No aquarium inhabitant should be your first choice when combating an algae outbreak. While some algae growth in any aquarium is normal excessive algae growth is indicative that there is a deeper underlying problem with the aquarium usually either too much light or too many nutrients in the water for the algae to feed on. Generally speaking, a planted aquarium should receive anywhere between 6-12 hours of light a day; running more than that can cause excess algae. If you are running your light for this amount of time and are still getting excess algae, your light may be too intense for your tank. This can be fixed by dimming your light if possible or reducing the amount the lights are on. Plants need about 4 hours of light to photosynthesize properly so you can reduce the light levels to this amount for a period of a few weeks to combat algae. Alternatively, you can completely blackout the tank for 48-72 hours; the plants will survive in darkness for a few days but many algae will not. Excess nutrients can come from two main sources in a planted aquarium: fertilizers and dissolved organics. Many people run into algae problems when they overdo it with adding fertilizers into the tank; this causes a build-up of components that if not utilized by the plants WILL be used by an algae in the water. Over feeding your plants will lead the same consequences as over feeding your fish. Try cutting back or cutting out feeding your plants for a few weeks while also doing large water changes to control the algae. Dissolved organics come from fish and plant waste. While a small amount of organics will help feed your plants, a build-up of waste if either your filter or substrate will cause excessive algae growth. To fix this simply make sure your filters and substrate are clean and free of waste. On top of this, increasing the amount of carbon in the water can help make growth more favorable for the plants. Generally speaking plants need higher amounts of carbon in the water to photosynthesize than algae does. This can be achieved through pressurized CO2 systems or dosing a liquid carbon (Flourish Excel). Flourish Excel can be dosed as much as a 4x dose to help kill off algae. This must be done carefully over the course of a few weeks; dosing daily, and increase the dosage by 50% every few days (1x, 1.5x, 2x, etc.). Even if you have everything in check you may still get some algae, every planted aquarium will benefit from having some inhabitants that will help algae growth on your plants and decor in check. A few of my favorites are: Otocinclus These little guys stay at 1.5-2″ an are...
read moreThe importance of water changes in the home aquarium
The importance of water changes in the home aquarium by Christopher Fong photo provided by Absolutely Fish Water changes provide many benefits to most home aquariums by adding essential minerals/elements and removing organic/inorganic toxins that can build up over time in a closed environment like an aquarium. The concept of adding “good stuff” and removing “bad stuff” can be the difference between a successful long-term aquarium and a problematic aquarium where the aquarist constantly battles nuisance algae and disease. The benefits of water changes can be applied to all different types of aquariums ranging from a simple 10-gallon freshwater community tank to a 150-gallon reef tank. However, certain aquariums benefit more from regular water changes such as African cichlids, goldfish, Discus, saltwater fish only and large predatory tanks. Water changes become especially important in tanks where filtration is undersized, the fish population is overstocked and overfeed. However, for water changes to be effective they must be done correctly regarding frequency, size, and preparation of the new water. In this blog I will discuss how to correctly perform a water change to help benefit your aquarium during maintenance. Frequency: How often an aquarist must perform water changes on their aquarium varies depending on several factors regarding the way a tank is setup and stocked. For example, a 75 gallon with overstocked large predatory fish and an undersized hang on back filter rated at 30 gallons is going to need more frequent water changes compared to a 20 gallon with an oversized hang on back filter rated at 75 gallons stocked with an appropriate amount of small community fish. Water changes also vary depending on people’s schedule between family, work, and school. Personally, I recommend water changes be conducted every week for most types of aquariums. This helps to keep the amount of organic and inorganic impurities limited in the aquarium as these toxins can have a negative effect on the health and growth of fish/ corals and can also promote the growth of nuisance algae. Another benefit of doing frequent water changes is the addition of essential major, minor and trace elements that can help maintain proper water parameters and keep the organisms within the aquarium healthy. With doing regular water changes the PH of the aquarium also remains more stable with the addition of carbonates/ bicarbonates and the removal of organic wastes that can acidify the water overtime. In a scenario where an aquarium receives a water change once a month the aquarium will often experience a drop in PH due to the build up in organics until the next water change where the PH will then suddenly rise with the addition of new water containing a higher PH. This shift in parameters can cause stress upon the organisms within an aquarium compromising immune systems and enabling disease to take hold. Once again, every aquarium is different and different water change schedules can work equally well ranging significantly. Size: Once again, the size of a water change depends on a variety of factors depending on how a tank is setup and stocked. Some aquarist will prefer smaller more frequent water changes while other prefer larger less frequent. But what exactly constitutes a small and large water change? This varies from person to person, but I believe water...
read moreFancy Goldfish Trending Now!
Fancy Goldfish Trending Now written by Mike De Olivera The fancy goldfish has always been the classic beginner fish. Many fish-keepers have been introduced to the hobby by winning a pet goldfish at a carnival or inheriting one from a friend or family member as a gift. It is unfortunate for the goldfish that people think they can be kept in a bowl. We encounter many customers who visit our store under these false pretenses. Here at Absolutely Fish we try our best to make our clients’ fish keeping endeavors a successful and fulfilling one. To start, these fish get quite large. They can live for twenty years or more and can be quite messy. Over-filtration is key to keeping your goldfish healthy and happy. It is best to go with a filter that is rated for twice the size of your aquarium. Whether it’s a power filter or canister, bigger is always better and will help you from having to do such frequent water changes. Preferably you should dedicate 20 gallons of water per 1 goldfish. Goldfish also prefer well-oxygenated water so adding an air pump and bubbler is always a good idea. The bulk of their diet should be a sinking pellet food. There are many available that are designed specifically for goldfish. To vary their diet you should also feed them some veggie-based foods such as dried seaweed or spirulina enriched brine shrimp. The desired pH range is anywhere from 7.0 to 7.6. We love using aquarium salt with our goldfish because it helps with gill function and is a great way to naturally keep down disease. We also dose Microbe-lift’s Thera-P to all of our goldfish tanks at Absolutely Fish. Thera-P is an all natural probiotic bacteria that works as an immune-stimulant and will out compete bad bacteria found in your aquarium and in the gut of your fish. We believe this sets our fish apart from the rest. With this knowledge we hope you can enjoy the pleasures of owning these lovely fish. The amount of different varieties of fancy goldfish is truly astounding. No longer do you just see tanks full of plain orange fish with a flowing tail. Nowadays you can choose from multiple varieties and color variations. It is truly amazing to think that all of these fancy goldfish originated from the standard carp. Here are some photos of the different varieties of goldfish we bring in to the shop. Black Moor / Telescope Eye – Moors are known to be one of the hardier varieties. This is the classic black moor but we do get them in Red or a combo of Black and Red colors. You can easily identify them by their bulging eyes. (Photo by Absolutely Fish) Bubble Eye Goldfish – Known to be one of the harder to keep fancy goldfish. Recommended to be kept in a tank with smooth gravel and decorations and concealed filter intakes to avoid damage to their fluid-filled sacs under their eyes. (Photo from wikipedia.com) Lionhead Goldfish – These fish originate from China and look very similar to Ranchu goldfish, which come from Japan. Both fish lack a dorsal fin. The Ranch goldfish are known for being a better quality fish with more of an arched back. (Photo...
read moreQuarantine Tank – A Home Aquarium Life-Saver!
Quarantine Tank – A Home Aquarium Life-Saver! by Stephanie Lamprea What is a Quarantine Tank? A Quarantine Tank is a separate home aquarium that houses and acclimates new fishes or corals for a period of time before inserting them into your display tank. It is the perfect environment to observe new livestock for any diseases/infections and, if necessary, to properly heal your new livestock back to health! This process also prevents the possibilities of adding disease/infection to your display tank and infecting your currently healthy fish. EQUIPMENT: The items you need to setup a quarantine are a tank, glass top, filter, heater, standard fluorescent light, and some PVC pipes (or plastic plants and decorations) to provide atmosphere and hiding places for your new fishes. TANK SIZE is important and depends on what fish are being introduced. In a quarantine tank, the height is not as important as the surface area of the tank. For small fish we recommend a 20 long, for medium size fish a 30 long, and for large fish 40 breeder tank. HOW LONG TO QUARANTINE? When introducing a new fish or coral, we recommend a quarantine process of minimum 2 to 4 weeks. This period provides you ample time to observe your livestock – is your fish eating? Any signs of sickness? Any abnormal behavior? If any of these signs come up, then you can properly medicate your tank. If you have any questions on medications or treatments, feel free to call the store and talk to any of our knowledgeable aquarists! WATER CHANGES: We recommend you test the water levels of your tank daily, and perform weekly water changes. Keep in mind that if there is medication in the tank at the time of a water change, you need to put in a partial re-dose of the medication to balance your tank out. Tip: Keep water parameters the same as your display so that acclimation goes smoothly. When concluding your quarantine session, properly acclimate the fish/coral from quarantine into display with either the Bag Method or Drip Method. If you plan on adding more livestock after this, it’s a good idea to put some small fish in the quarantine to keep the biological process going, such as damsels or clownfish. You can keep these in your quarantine, or eventually add them to your display, but it’s a safe way to keep the culture of the tank stable and prevent spikes in the nitrogen cycle when you decide to purchase a new fish. ALTERNATIVES: In the aquarium hobby, we highly, highly recommend having a quarantine tank setup to ensure a healthy environment for your aquatic pets. If a quarantine system is not an option for you, an alternative method within the acclimation of your fish can be a HydroPlex Dip. HydroPlex is a product we sell at our store that can be dosed at the end of drip acclimation for 10 minutes before putting your fish into the display tank. There is also the option of monitoring your desired fish in the store for a week before purchasing. We offer at our store a 7 day hold policy, in which a customer will pay for a fish in full and we will hold it to monitor its health and behavior before...
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Aquarium Maintenance
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